As a medical student and resident, one of the few luxuries I would treat myself to a few times a year was a mani-pedi. It was a relatively affordable act of self-love to get my sore callused feet scrubbed, filed, buffed, and polished. It felt like such a treat to have my paws pampered after several months of being on call for 30 hours straight every 4th day. 

As a former biochemistry major, I was always overcome by the smell that hit me as I opened the door to the salon…

It brought me back instantly to organic chemistry lab… 

The salon smelled100x more potent than chemistry class. 

The difference?

In organic chemistry lab, not only were we required to wear goggles but we also worked under a specialized hood that functioned like a very efficient kitchen exhaust fan. I took note of the masks the technicians wore but for many years didn’t consider it too much further. 

Honestly, I was pretty stuck in survival mode at the time. 

A few years later, during my fellowship training as an allergy and asthma specialist that I learned about and saw patients with occupational rhinitis and asthma and contact dermatitis. These were more often than not, Asian or African American women who would come into the office due to severe rashes, nasal congestion or new-onset asthma that was not improving with typical treatments. These women had one thing in common: their immune systems had become allergic to chemicals they were being exposed to every single day they were at work. 

Sadly, it took my own health struggles to dig into this issue further and learn the extent to which the chemicals commonly found in nail polish and artificial nails can affect our bodies. Many of these substances are also found in other beauty and health-related products too. What are these chemicals and how do we avoid them? 

Have you ever wondered why the majority of manicurists are Vietnamese women? 

In 1975, actress Tippi Hendren visited a refugee camp in northern California. After being complimented on her nails, she had her manicurist teach the women how to do nails which then sparked the birth of the nail industry. 

Here are the Nail Salon’s Dirty Dozen:   

1. Acetone (nail polish remover): headaches; dizziness; and irritated eyes, skin, and throat.
2. Acetonitrile (fingernail glue remover): irritated nose and throat; breathing problems; nausea; vomiting; weakness; and exhaustion.
3. Butyl acetate (nail polish, nail polish remover): headaches and irritated eyes, skin, nose, mouth, and throat
4. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), (nail polish): nausea and irritated eyes, skin, nose, mouth, and throat. Long-term exposures to high concentrations may cause other serious effects.
5. Ethyl acetate (nail polish, nail polish remover, fingernail glue): irritated eyes, stomach, skin, nose, mouth, and throat; high levels can cause fainting.
6. Ethyl methacrylate (EMA), (artificial nail liquid): asthma; irritated eyes, skin, nose, and mouth; difficulty concentrating. Exposures while pregnant may affect your child.
7. Formaldehyde (nail polish, nail hardener): difficulty breathing, including coughing, asthma-like attacks, and wheezing; allergic reactions; irritated eyes, skin, and throat. Formaldehyde can cause cancer.
8. Isopropyl acetate (nail polish, nail polish remover): sleepiness, and irritated eyes, nose, and throat.
9. Methacrylic acid (nail primer): skin burns and irritated eyes, skin, nose, mouth, and throat. At higher concentrations, this chemical can cause difficulty breathing.
10. Methyl methacrylate (MMA), (artificial nail products, though banned for use in many states): asthma; irritated eyes, skin, nose, and mouth; difficulty concentrating; loss of smell. Acrylates are also common ingredients in adhesives used to apply eyelash extensions. 
11. Quaternary ammonium compounds (disinfectants): irritated skin and nose and may cause asthma. Frequently used in sanitizing cleaners and wipes. 
12. Toluene (nail polish, fingernail glue): dry or cracked skin; headaches, dizziness, and numbness; irritated eyes, nose, throat, and lungs; damage to liver and kidneys; and harm to unborn children during pregnancy. 

Toluene, formaldehyde, and dibutyl phthalate are known as the "toxic trio".

How can we go Non-tox without the Nonsense?

The good news is we still have stylish nails, advocate for increased protections AND continue to support a female-led industry!

Here is how: 

1. Whenever possible, use products that are (atleast) 10-Free. 

Here are a few brands that fit the bill: Olive & June, Cote, Ella + Mila, Zoya, Sundays, Nails Inc

1. Let your salon know you are willing to pay a little extra to ensure a safer environment to help increase consumer demand. 
2. Advocate for the Safer Beauty Bill by texting BETTERBEAUTY to 52886 in the US and 1-888-886-7542 in Canada. 
3. Watch Not So Pretty on HBO Max to learn more! 

If you are ready to take MORE action, consider becoming a Clean Beauty Advocate with me! 

It is countless stories like my patients and my own that inspired me to take the leap and join Beautycounter. 

Our mission is powered by people. Every connection made, every story told, every product sold is a step towards a safer world. This work matters. Your voice matters. Be part of our movement today. 

To learn more, email me at [email protected]. 

Sources:

PMID: 11100299 

PMID: 34104483 

DOI:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaip.2019.10.017

DOI: 10.5114/ada.2020.95848

https://www.osha.gov/nail-salons/chemical-hazards